Early 1860s styles aimed for the "hourglass look." The top of the dress (the "bodice" or "body") was usually well fitted with dropped shoulders. The waist was defined and sat smoothly on the corset underneath. The skirt was very full, usually worn over a hoop skirt ("cage" or "crinoline") and the hem touched or nearly touched the ground.
Though the bodice and skirt were created as separate pieces, they were almost always sewn together at the waistline to create a one-piece dress. Occasionally, a silk dress had both a daytime and evening bodice that went with the same skirt. However, the bodice was still sewn to the skirt for wearing and the stitches picked out afterward in order to switch bodices.
Except in the case of a Garibaldi outfit or a white waist, the bodice and skirt material always matched. Period photographs which apparently show a mismatched bodice and skirt show either a white waist or Garibaldi waist (linked above), or the lady is wearing a short fitted jacket that gives the appearance of a different bodice. The dress bodice and skirt itself always matched.
A lady's style of dress was influenced by many factors including her age, income level, region, and time of day.
Fabric choices were based on the type of dress being worn. Just as we now use certain fabrics for specific items (t-shirt material for work shirts, velvet for evening dresses) they used certain fabrics for specific styles. Cotton was a washable, everyday fabric and was not used for high fashion outfits (the exception is fine cotton sheers and semi-sheers). Silk and wool were the standard fabrics of choice for many styles, especially high fashion styles. Nearly every woman would have been able to afford at least one silk dress.
Click on the links below for more detailed information.
FABRIC
Silk Fabric - The best type for dresses is 100% silk taffeta. Dupioni was not manufactured in the 1860s and is not right for that era. Solids, plaids and some patterns are all appropriate. Silk was readily available for all areas of the country and could be used for nearly all types of dresses except "wash dresses" for outside chores.
Cotton Sheer Fabric - For a lightweight summer dress, cotton lawn or cotton shirting is lovely. Solids, stripes, plaids and some florals are all appropriate. Avoid neon colors and random prints - print designs tended to be fairly organized and geometric in the 1860s.
Cotton Mid-Weight Fabric - A work or day dress can be made from calico-weight cotton. Solids should be avoided but stripes, plaids and some florals are appropriate. Avoid neon colors and random prints - print designs tended to be fairly organized and geometric in the 1860s. Cottons were not used for high fashion styles.
Wool Fabric - Wool can be used for everything from a work dress to a nice day/evening dress. Worsteds, suiting, tropical weight and some flannels are appropriate. Since there is great variation in what fabric vendors describe as wool, it might be best to get a swatch first or get advice from an experienced reenactor. Wools should have a tight weave, smooth finish and flexible drape. Solids, stripes, plaids and some florals are all appropriate. Avoid neon colors and random prints - print designs tended to be fairly organized and geometric in the 1860s.
Linen Fabric - By the 1860s, this was rarely used for dresses, though some underclothes can be found in linen. Occasionally a modern fabric that is a cotton-linen or wool-linen blend has the right "feel" for the 1860s.
Polyester Fabric - No, no, no! Not invented in the 1860s and it just looks wrong.
Rayon Fabric - No, no, no! Not invented in the 1860s and it just looks wrong.
LINK TO FABRIC RESOURCES PAGE
DAYTIME
Wrappers
Cotton Work or Day Dress
Silk or Wool Day Dress
Skirt and Waist (Blouse)
Sheer Dress
EVENING
Ball and Formal Evening Gowns
SPECIAL OCCASION
A lady's style of dress was influenced by many factors including her age, income level, region, and time of day.
Fabric choices were based on the type of dress being worn. Just as we now use certain fabrics for specific items (t-shirt material for work shirts, velvet for evening dresses) they used certain fabrics for specific styles. Cotton was a washable, everyday fabric and was not used for high fashion outfits (the exception is fine cotton sheers and semi-sheers). Silk and wool were the standard fabrics of choice for many styles, especially high fashion styles. Nearly every woman would have been able to afford at least one silk dress.
Click on the links below for more detailed information.
FABRIC
Silk Fabric - The best type for dresses is 100% silk taffeta. Dupioni was not manufactured in the 1860s and is not right for that era. Solids, plaids and some patterns are all appropriate. Silk was readily available for all areas of the country and could be used for nearly all types of dresses except "wash dresses" for outside chores.
Cotton Sheer Fabric - For a lightweight summer dress, cotton lawn or cotton shirting is lovely. Solids, stripes, plaids and some florals are all appropriate. Avoid neon colors and random prints - print designs tended to be fairly organized and geometric in the 1860s.
Cotton Mid-Weight Fabric - A work or day dress can be made from calico-weight cotton. Solids should be avoided but stripes, plaids and some florals are appropriate. Avoid neon colors and random prints - print designs tended to be fairly organized and geometric in the 1860s. Cottons were not used for high fashion styles.
Wool Fabric - Wool can be used for everything from a work dress to a nice day/evening dress. Worsteds, suiting, tropical weight and some flannels are appropriate. Since there is great variation in what fabric vendors describe as wool, it might be best to get a swatch first or get advice from an experienced reenactor. Wools should have a tight weave, smooth finish and flexible drape. Solids, stripes, plaids and some florals are all appropriate. Avoid neon colors and random prints - print designs tended to be fairly organized and geometric in the 1860s.
Linen Fabric - By the 1860s, this was rarely used for dresses, though some underclothes can be found in linen. Occasionally a modern fabric that is a cotton-linen or wool-linen blend has the right "feel" for the 1860s.
Polyester Fabric - No, no, no! Not invented in the 1860s and it just looks wrong.
Rayon Fabric - No, no, no! Not invented in the 1860s and it just looks wrong.
LINK TO FABRIC RESOURCES PAGE
DAYTIME
Wrappers
Cotton Work or Day Dress
Silk or Wool Day Dress
Skirt and Waist (Blouse)
Sheer Dress
EVENING
Ball and Formal Evening Gowns
SPECIAL OCCASION
