Cotton Dress

A lady's basic work dress or house dress could often be a simple cotton outfit. This ensemble is the easiest for a reenacting lady to start with because it is the least expensive and can be easily "dressed up" or "dressed down" depending on your accessories.

Cotton was washable, making it a good choice for dirty chores. However, laundering methods of the 1860s were harsh and dyes weren't always colorfast. So nearly 100% of all cotton dresses were patterned fabric, not solid colors.

Bodice

Bodices for work dresses are generally lined and have matching (not contrasting!) piping at the neckline, armscye, bottom of waistband, and at the wrist of coat sleeves. The shoulders are dropped. Bodices generally fastened with hooks and eyes and buttons were generally for looks. However, working buttons became more popular as the '60s went on. If the dress is meant for work and being washed, the buttons should be washable (i.e. metal, glass, etc.)

Cotton dresses tended to be gathered at the waist, rather than darted, because cotton fades unevenly. When a lady tried to alter or reuse the dress fabric, she didn't want noticeable unfaded sections where the darts were.

Sleeves
Cotton dresses never have open, or pagoda sleeves. (The only exception is cotton sheers.) Cotton dresses were often used for work, so sleeve types were typically ones that could be rolled up. Both the coat sleeve and the bishop sleeve were used.

Skirt
Cotton dresses always had matching skirts. The skirt was generally gauged, rather than pleated, onto the waistband. Since cotton dresses were usually meant to be washed, trim on the dress was kept to a minimum and was also washable. If your impression is nicer daywear, an easy and pretty trim method on the skirt is to sew a row of tucks.

In order to protect the skirt fabric, a hem facing was usually used. Hem facings could be plain white, or they could be made from scrap fabrics. Additional protection can be provided with wool or cotton hem tape around the bottom edge.

The hem circumference is between 120 inches and 140 inches. If the dress is worn in a working impression, a cage is still almost always used, as it was easier to walk and maneuver in. Corded petticoats were extremely rare, as the freedom of the newly invented cage was far more desirable. If a cage absolutely cannot be used for safety reasons, several starched petticoats may be used instead. 

Accessories
Though work dresses were often washable, ladies still wore collars on them to protect the dress from body oils. For a working impression, you can wear a white washable scarf at the neck instead.

A pinner apron is appropriate for working impressions. (Download instructions for one here.)  For working around fires, a wool apron is recommended, as it will not catch fire as easily.

See Etsy for more pictures

Homespun Dress from the collection of Vicki Betts

PATTERN SUGGESTIONS

Past Patterns #701

HELPFUL ARTICLES
"Defining the Work Dress" by Elizabeth Clark

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